Technical data support page…2, Lathe accessories.

 There are numerous other tools on the market for woodturning, and looking through any catalogue you would be forgiven for thinking where do you start? what should I get? and more importantly,what do I need? I will try to give you a little guidance on just what you need to cover all the basic elements of woodturning this is by no means all that’s available, more the essentials as I see it.


​After the Lathe and the tools on page 1, the next most important item on your list should be a grinder, shown left, without this, sharpening the tools will be very difficult, and without sharp tools you will be unable to produce good work.

The grinder pictured above is my own, it has 2 x 8″ (200 mm) wheels, a grey wheel that has a fairly rough grade and a white wheel with a much finer grade.

A, Jacobs chuck on No1 morse taper, used mainly in the tailstock for most of the drilling processes done on the lathe. Chuck key shown below.

B, Jacobs chuck on No2 morse taper, used mainly in the tailstock for most of the drilling processes done on the lathe. Chuck key shown below.

​You will only require one of these chucks depending on what morse taper is in the lathe you are using, but this is a very useful addition to your lathes equipment, I would highly recommend that you get one.







Above, items A to M are all morse taper items that are used on the lathe both in the drive shaft and the tail stock. Items A to G are all on a number 2 morse taper. Items H to M are all on a number 1 morse taper. You will only require 1 of these sets depending on the size of the morse taper on your lathe.

A, Tailstock revolving centre.    B, Tailstock, steb revolving centre.    C, Tailstock, small steb revolving centre.    D, Medium size steb centre.   E, 4 prong drive centre,    F, Tailstock dead centre with removable point used in long hole boring.    G, Counter bore tool also  used in the headstock for long hole boring.

H, Large steb centre.    I, Small steb centre.    J, 4 prong drive centre.    K, 2 prong drive centre.    L, Revolving tailstock centre. M, Dead tailstock centre, (this one would require lubricant).


A, Screw chuck with a small fine threaded screw, used for small turnings only, this chuck is held in the chuck or can be screwed directly on to the drive shaft.


​​B, Screw chuck with a slightly larger screw, can be used for slightly bigger items, also below it is a spacer that can be fitted over the screw to spread the load of the item being turned.

​​C, This is the main wood screw used in conjunction with the Vicmarc chuck, it’s 12 mm and very strong.

I would recommend you get at least one screw chuck.

Face plates and face plate rings.

​​​​  ​

Left are a selection of faceplates and faceplate rings.

A, 125 mm Aluminium faceplate.

B, 150 mm steel faceplate.

C, 65 mm faceplate ring.    D, 100 mm steel faceplate.    E, 100 mm faceplate ring.

Faceplates and faceplate rings are used mainly for making bowls or platters, the faceplates screw directly onto the lathe shaft, the faceplate rings require a chuck with the ring held by the jaws.

In both items the faceplates or rings are held on the wood by wood screws.

​  The faceplate rings are especially useful if there is a requirement for the item to be taken off the lathe and re-mounted again.

Pin Chuck.


A pin chuck for the PCC 2000 chuck, works on a cam principle, a neat hole is bored to fit the pin, then the roller (seen above left) is placed on the flat area of the pin, as the wood rotates it’s held tight by the pin moving to the side.

Picture right, the PCC 2000 chuck with the pin chuck in place.

A pin chuck is also a top priority, another example of pin chuck will be discussed in the section covering chucks.


Chucks and chuck accessories

The PCC 2000 Chuck.

The chuck is 4 jawed with interchangeable jaws, the ones fitted are the standard dovetail jaws that comes with the chuck. Numerous other types and sizes of jaws are available for this chuck, some of which I have pictured below.


A, The main body of the chuck with a right hand thread.

B, a second body, this has a left hand thread for outboard, all the components are interchangeable with body “A”, the jaws mounted are 65 mm in diameter.​

C,​ These are the smallest set of collets for this chuck, requiring a 50 mm recess.

D, These are the largest set of collets for this chuck, requiring a 90 mm recess, good for big bowls.

E, ​A face plate ring of 120 mm in diameter, used in conjunction with the 90 mm collets.

F, This is the pin chuck for this chuck, it’s 25 mm in diameter and works on a cam principle, it fits into the body of the chuck.

G, ​Pair of (C) keys supplied with the chuck.

I still use this chuck on a very regular basis, it’s one I’ve had for a long time and got used to it, it does what’s its required to do and you can’t ask for anything more than that. It’s made for my Union Jubilee Lathes with an 1″x 10 TPI thread, and as the Jubilee has the outboard turning facility, body (B) has a left hand thread, but all the parts are useable in either body.

 The Vicmarc VM100 chuck.


Left, this is the Rolls Royce of lathe chucks, the one pictured is the Vicmarc VM100, it’s made in Australia and the engineering is second to none.

Comes in two thread sizes, the standard M33 which fits directly on to the lathe shaft, or if your lathe has a different thread size go for the M40 thread and a suitable chuck insert to fit your particular machine, this one has an insert to fit my Union Jubilee lathe which is 1″ x 10 TPI,  (25 mm x 10 threads per inch).

The chuck is 4 jawed with interchangeable jaws, the ones fitted are the standard dovetail jaws that comes with the chuck. Numerous other types and sizes of jaws are available for this chuck, some of which I have pictured below.


Some of jaws for the Vicmarc VM100 chuck.

A, a set of shark jaws for the VM100, these are the smallest size at 48 mm, they are ribbed on both the inside and the outside, giving you maximum grip in either direction, gripping or expanding, a very useful set if you are working with wood where being held by only one end at sometime in the turning is required, available in several sizes.

B, a pin chuck for the VM100, this is the smallest size at 25 mm, it’s only used in expansion mode. i.e. where you drill a 25 mm hole in your blank and mount it on to the pin and expand the jaws outwards to tighten. Used for the making of natural edged bowls, it does come in a bigger size at 35 mm for the pin, but this only fits the larger Vicmarc chuck, the VM120.

​This type of pin chuck would be my first choice.

C, long nose set of jaws for the VM100 chuck, this is the 35 mm size, very useful for items where you need to get access to the base but further away from the face of the chuck than the normal jaws, also very useful for making small bowls, it’s dovetailed as normal but it’s smaller diameter works well with small bowls where the chuck recess can be made smaller. Although smaller it’s grip is just as positive as if it were the standard dovetail jaws.





Left, the profile of a set of shark jaws showing how they are ribbed, the size at (A) approx 40 mm, the size at (B) approx 48 mm.



Left, I have selected a single jaw from 4 different sets of jaws for the VM100 chuck, these shows the profiles of each of these sets. A, the standard dovetail jaws. B, 48 mm shark jaws. C, 25 mm pin chuck jaws.  D, 35mm long nose jaws.


Left, another very useful set of jaws, these are cole jaws or more commonly known as bowl jaws. The ones shown are for my Vicmarc VM100 chuck, they come in 3 sizes, 285 mm being the smallest (as this is), 385 for the next size and 485 are the largest, just pick the size that suits your lathe.

​The jaws are fixed to the chuck in the same way as any other type of jaws.




Left, this shows the profile of the bowl jaws above and how they are used, they would be screwed to the chuck and the nylon buttons positioned to suit the bowl being made.

There are 6 different settings on the 285 mm bowl jaws starting at 115 mm up to 285 mm.

The nylon buttons are held by grub screws and have 2 different concave and convex profiles on each button making them very versatile to use. Seen here gripping the outside of a bowl.

Below, Long hole boring kit.



 Here are 2 examples of long hole boring kits, top, a shell auger with a plain shaft, the second is a similar auger but with a twist relief in the shaft, this has the potential to hold more waste which means it needs to be cleared less often. Bottom left, are the 2 parts essential to be able to do the boring, one is the tailstock part with a removable tip and the other is the counter bore tool. Bottom right, are the same 2 tools but these are both on morse tapers. You will only require one of these sets.

Left a selection of tools all to do with dimensions.



A & B, 2 sets of  claw callipers, used to measure the thickness of your work, used mainly in spindle work.

C & D, 2 sets of Vernier callipers, again used to determine the thickness or diameter of your work, these ones are a little more accurate as it can be set to a given size and then by means of a lock nut held in that setting. This is especially useful if you are doing more than one of any item. The upper set has an additional micro adjustment facility, allowing a much more accurate setting.

E, a double claw callipers, used to measure the thickness of a bowl’s sides, especially useful when a bowl is inverted and visual sightings are not available.

F, external callipers, quite accurate as this type too has an adjustment screw.

G, internal callipers, again with the adjustment screw, used to measure any internal size.

H, a pair of dividers, used in the layout of your work.

Although this is quite a comprehensive list of what I see as essential pieces of equipment, there are numerous other tools and pieces of equipment that you may want or need in the future, I will deal with some of them in another page.


Tools                                                                             work holding